Luxury watches have a high durability
This is how the watch lasts a lifetime
When the clock purrs, man is happy. But how does the watch last a lifetime? wanted.de obtained important tips on maintenance and overhaul from the experts at Junghans and Mühle-Glashütte.
Two of the most renowned German watch manufacturers helped us further with the question of how to look after and care for the noble timepiece. For Mühle-Glashütte replied Nicole Liebeck, master watchmaker and service manager. At Junghans Christian Hamdorf, head of the Erhard Junghans Atelier, answered our questions.
Which inspections are necessary at which intervals?
Mühle-Glashütte: A service is due every three to five years. Above all, it is necessary to replace the oils, because they can evaporate or gum up. It is also important to remove any abrasion from the work. Seals can age; they are damaged by solvents, cosmetics or perfume. A bump on the crown can also be harmful. Junghans: An overhaul is usually only necessary if the watch shows significant deviations. The less often it has to be opened, the better - this keeps dust and dirt outside.
With normal use, it makes sense to check the water resistance and all functions every two years. However, if the watch is subject to heavy use, for example when showering, swimming or even in salt water, an annual inspection is recommended.
What else can a man do to keep the good piece in good shape?
Junghans: Man should treat his watch like his wife and fountain pen! That means, always carefully, lovingly and reverently. And of course never lend. Mühle-Glashütte: The proud owner should clean their watch from time to time. A cloth that is not too damp is suitable for watches with a water resistance between three and five bar. Watches with a tightness of ten bar can be cleaned under running water with a little soapy water.
A toothbrush is best for stainless steel bands. Then dry the watch with a soft cloth. The quick set date should not be activated between 9 p.m. and 3 a.m. - especially with chronographs - and the date should only be set forwards. Because then the date display jumps. For watches with a screw-down crown, this should always be hand-tight due to its water resistance.
Which wearing parts should be replaced at which intervals?Mühle-Glashütte: The most important thing is to change the oil every three to five years in order to avoid mechanical abrasion or even bearing damage in the movement. Heavily stressed components are the anchor wheel or fourth wheel, these are among the fastest turning wheels. An exchange after five to ten years can be necessary here for the exact course. With normal use, it is advisable to replace the housing seals every five years and the crown and tube every ten years. If you wear leather straps every day, you should change them after one to one and a half years for reasons of hygiene. Junghans: In general, the automatic spring barrels should always be completely replaced after a long period of operation in order to guarantee a perfect "energy storage". In addition, the coupling wheels and the rotor bearing may have to be replaced. Which components are low-maintenance and guarantee a long service life right from the start?
Junghans: Most parts of a watch movement require very little maintenance. Movements with a lubrication-free escapement have an advantage in terms of service intervals.
Because here there is no oil film that becomes brittle - this has a negative effect on the accuracy of a clockwork when it is inhibited.
Mühle-Glashütte: Since the escapement - including escape wheel - is one of the most stressed parts of a watch movement, components made of silicon or with a diamond coating can offer advantages. The other components of the work must, however, be adapted to this; because even a low-maintenance escapement is of little use if the oil has to be changed elsewhere.
What else can a man keep in mind when storing and carrying so that the timepiece lasts a long time and always runs precisely?
Mühle-Glashütte: Shocks, large temperature fluctuations and magnetic fields are to be avoided. A diver's watch should be cleaned under running water after swimming in salt water. Hand-wound watches should be wound at the same time each day. An automatic movement winds itself up by moving the wearer eight to ten hours a day. On unworn watches, 15 to 20 turns of the crown are sufficient to wind it.
At night, the watch should not be stored in cold places - tables with a glass surface are not ideal either, as the accuracy and oil suffer from temperature fluctuations. Incidentally, the temperature of the watch on the arm is around 30 ° C. If a watch is not to be worn for a long period of time, it should be stored in a case or display case in a dry and dust-proof place. A watch winder is also a good place. Otherwise, it is sufficient if the watch is completely wound up once every two to three months so that the oil is distributed in the movement and remains elastic. When storing for a longer period of time, you should also ensure protection from direct sunlight - and remove the watch in the solarium.
Junghans: Extreme temperatures and high humidity reduce the service life - so the watch must be stored in a protected place. The mechanical watch should also be moved regularly. But not too extreme, of course: You should avoid loads and strong vibrations, such as when chopping wood or playing tennis.
As you can see, a watch is a sensitive technical masterpiece. With us you get fascinating insights.
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